9 Ingredients to Avoid During Treatment

It’s no secret that chemotherapy and radiation treatment can leave your skin feeling fragile, dry, and prone to irritation. While choosing and using gentle, nourishing skincare is vital, it’s equally important to avoid certain ingredients that can worsen skin sensitivity, trigger inflammation or other unwanted reactions, and disrupt healing.

To help you navigate the wild world of skincare, we made you a list of 9 ingredients to avoid during cancer treatment, including what to look for on labels, and where they tend to hide, so you can find the best safe skincare for you or a loved one. We hope this helps you make the best decisions about what to put on your skin during this challenging time.

1. Harsh Sulfates

Why to Avoid It: Sulfates are strong foaming agents commonly used in shampoos, cleansers, and body washes, but are also used in commercial floor cleaning products and engine degreasers. While they do a good job of removing dirt and oil, they can also strip the skin of its natural moisture, aggravating dryness, itchiness and irritation. We think these are too harsh on human skin in general, let alone during treatment.

What to Look for on Labels:

• Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS) – Extremely harsh, highly stripping to skin. Used in industrial degreasers.
• Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate (ALS) – Slightly milder than SLS, but still irritating for sensitive skin types.
• Sodium Myreth Sulfate – Milder than SLS but still drying; used in some "gentle" shampoos.
• Sodium Laureth Sulfate (SLES) – A milder version of SLS; less harsh but still quite harsh on skin.
• Ammonium Laureth Sulfate (ALES) – Similar to SLES, but still too strong for damaged or sensitive skin.
• TEA-Lauryl Sulfate – Slightly milder again, but still a concern for allergy-prone or reactive skin.
• Usually big, long words ending in –ate

Commonly Found In:

• Conventional drugstore body washes
• Foaming face and hand cleansers
• Traditional commercial shampoos
• Many clinical dandruff control shampoos
• Most commercial toothpastes

Our Preferred Alternative: Ultra Gentle Cleanser with Ceramides — a hypoallergenic, sulfate-free, pH balanced face-and-body cleanser formulated for hypersensitive skin. It's 75% gentler than SLS, 38% gentler than other clinical cleansers.

2. Alcohol (Drying Alcohols)

Why to Avoid It: Certain alcohols found in skincare can be extremely drying and irritating to the skin. They can strip natural oils and further dehydrate and irritate already-compromised, fragile skin, often increasing skin discomfort during treatment. You may be surprised at how many beauty products contain some kind of alcohol-based ingredient.

What to Look for on Labels:

• Denatured Alcohol – Strips oils, causes dryness and irritation, and can compromise skin barrier.
• Isopropyl Alcohol - Used as a disinfectant; very drying and irritating, especially to damaged skin.
• Ethanol - Evaporates quickly, removes protective lipids, often causes stinging.
• Benzyl Alcohol - Can be irritating at higher concentrations; used as a preservative or solvent.
• SD Alcohol (e.g., SD Alcohol 40) - Similar to ethanol; often found in toners and astringents.
• Witch Hazel (with Alcohol) - Often contains alcohol as a carrier; marketed as “natural” but often drying.
  

Commonly Found In:

• Toners and astringents – especially “oil-control” ones
• Disinfecting hand sanitizing gel, liquids and creams
• Acne remedies, spot treatments and “blemish control” creams
• Primers and setting sprays – especially “mattifying” ones
• Makeup removers and face wipes
• Antiperspirant and aftershaves
• Perfumes and fragranced lotions

3. Retinoids (Vitamin A Derivatives)

Why to Avoid It: Retinoids work by prompting surface skin cells to turn over, making way for new cell growth. While very effective for anti-ageing, they’re it's well known to cause skin reactions ranging from some slight sensitivity to severe reactions such as redness, stinging and flaky skin. When undergoing chemotherapy or radiation, the skin barrier is often compromised, which is why using Retinoids during this time is not recommended.

What to Look for on Labels:

• Retinol – the most common form but still causes skin irritation in some users.
• Tretinoin (Retinoic Acid) - powerful and effective but often causes redness, dryness, and peeling.
• Isotretinoin (Accutane - topical) - Usually prescribed for acne; extremely drying and irritating to skin.
• Adapalene (Differin) - OTC and Rx forms; slightly gentler than Tretinoin, but still irritating for sensitive skin.
• Retinyl Retinoate - Gentler than Retinol; still mildly active and can cause irritation in compromised skin.
• Retinyl Palmitate - One of the weakest forms; slow-acting but still not ideal during cancer treatment.
  

Commonly Found In:

• Anti-ageing moisturizers and eye creams
• Anti-ageing face serums and oils
• Acne and wrinkles spot treatments
• Prescription dermatology creams
• Prescription acne medications
  

Our Preferred Alternative: Bakuchiol Anti-Ageing Active Serum — a lightweight, plant-based Retinol alternative face serum for rejuvenating skin by stimulating collagen and skin cell turnover to diminish signs of ageing.

*While Bakuchiol is much gentler, every patient’s skin reacts differently. Some still experience redness, dryness, or sensitivity even with any ingredients. Your skin barrier is already weakened, so even mild actives can be too much.

4. Strong Exfoliants

Why to Avoid It: Exfoliation, whether chemical or physical, can be too harsh for skin undergoing chemotherapy or radiation treatment. Chemical exfoliants break down the outer layer while physical exfoliants buff away dead skin with friction. When your skin barrier is already compromised, these types of products can lead to more redness, burning, sensitivity, or delayed healing.

What to Look for on Labels - Chemical exfoliants:

• Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs) - Water-soluble acids that slough off dead skin cells but can sensitize skin.
• Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHAs) - Oil-soluble exfoliants that go deeper into pores. More drying than AHAs.
• Glycolic Acid (AHA) - A highly potent exfoliant that’s deeply penetrating but also very irritating to sensitive skin.
• Salicylic Acid (BHA) - Oil-soluble acid that clears out pores but can dry out skin and cause peeling.
• Lactic Acid (AHA) - Milder than glycolic acid, but in high concentrations, it can lead to redness or burning.
• Mandelic Acid (AHA) – More gentle than glycolic acid, but it’s still not ideal for compromised skin.
  

What to Look for on Labels - Physical exfoliants:

• Walnut shell powder
• Apricot kernel meal
• Microcrystalline beads
• Himilayan salt crystals
• Coffee grounds
• "Polishing" or "scrub" products
• Cleansing brushes
  

Commonly Found In:

• Acne treatments
• Brightening creams
• Peels and resurfacing serums
• Face powders and polishes
• Body scrubs and foot scrubs
• Chemical exfoliating pads
  
• Dry skin brushes

Our Preferred Alternative: Gentle Exfoliating Micro Powder — A natural, non-abrasive, facial exfoliant for super soft, clean, skin. Gentle ingredients buff, cleanse and soothe all skin types. 

*While our Gentle Exfoliation Micro Powder is much gentler on the skin, keep in mind that every patient’s skin reacts differently during treatment. Your skin barrier is already weakened, so even very gentle formulas can cause a reaction.

Another way to gently exfoliate the skin is to use a soft, warm, damp washcloth with a gentle cleanser such as our creamy, hydrating Milk Wash to help remove any excess dry skin and flakes. 

5. Synthetic Preservatives

Why to Avoid It: Parabens and other synthetic preservatives are widely used to extend the shelf life of skincare products by preventing bacterial growth. However, many synthetic preservatives can be irritating, especially to skin already compromised by chemotherapy or radiation treatment. Some (like parabens) are also linked to potential hormone disruption, leading many patients looking for oncology-safe skincare to avoid them entirely.

What to Look for on Labels:

• Parabens (Methylparaben, Propylparaben, Butylparaben, Ethylparaben) – widely used, but linked to potential hormone disruption due to their weak estrogen-like effects. Also known to irritate sensitive skin.
• Phenoxyethanol – often used as a paraben alternative. It’s effective and widely used, but can be sensitizing to the skin and cause redness, burning, or allergic reactions in some individuals.
• Formaldehyde-Releasing Agents (e.g., DMDM Hydantoin, Imidazolidinyl Urea) – these release small amounts of formaldehyde over time to prevent microbial growth. They are known skin irritants and common allergens.
• Methylisothiazolinone / Methylchloroisothiazolinone (MI/MCI) – powerful and found in many rinse-off and leave-on products. Extremely sensitizing, even in small amounts, and have been linked to contact dermatitis.
• Benzyl Alcohol - Naturally derived but still a common skin sensitizer. Can cause stinging or dryness in people with delicate or damaged skin, especially at higher concentrations.
  

Commonly Found In:

• Face creams and body moisturizers
• Conventional synthetic sunscreens
• Drugstore shampoos and conditioners
• Shower gels, body washes and liquid soaps
• Face washes and makeup removers
• Baby wipes and cleansing towelettes
• Deodorants and antiperspirants
  

Our Preferred Alternative: To purchase products made with natural preservation systems instead of synthetic ones. Not only will this lower your chemical burden, but it will also help minimise your exposure to harmful chemicals and support your body's natural detoxification processes.

They are also beneficial for sensitive or compromised skin because they pose a lower risk of allergic reaction, are generally non-disruptive to the skin barrier, and are free from hormone-disrupting or formaldehyde-releasing properties.

We like to use Humulus Lupulus (Hops) Extract, a botanical ingredient derived from the flowers (cones) of the hop plant, the same used in beer brewing. We love using it because not only does it have antimicrobial properties, but it’s also soothing, anti-inflammatory, and high in antioxidants, perfect for fragile and sensitive skin.

6. Penetration Enhancers

Why to Avoid It: Penetration enhancers work by disrupting the skin barrier to help active ingredients pass through it more easily. When your skin is in a fragile, compromised state, these ingredients may cause a heightening of dryness, irritation, or sensitivity, and lead to an increase in the absorption of unwanted chemicals into the skin and bloodstream. They’re also known to trigger allergic reactions and contact dermatitis, especially with repeated exposure, and can be harmful to skin cells in higher concentrations. 

What to Look for on Labels:

• Propylene Glycol – A synthetic solvent commonly used in cosmetics. It’s known to cause skin irritation and allergic reactions, including contact dermatitis, especially in people with sensitive or troubled skin.
• PEGs (Polyethylene Glycol) - Petroleum-derived compounds used to enhance permeability in skincare products. They increase absorption of both desired actives and unwanted contaminants from the manufacturing process.
• Dimethyl Sulfoxide (DMSO) - A powerful solvent that easily penetrates the skin, but it can also carry unwanted substances into the deeper layers of the skin and even into the bloodstream.
  

Commonly Found In:

• Topical medications and numbing gels
• Cosmeceuticals / anti-aging skincare
• Acne and hyperpigmentation treatments
• Transdermal patches
• Skin lightening or brightening products
• Sunscreen (particularly concerning for synthetic formulas)
  

7. Synthetic Fragrance & Phthalates

Why to Avoid It: Synthetic fragrances are lab-made scent compounds used in personal care products. Many of these compounds are known endocrine disruptors because they mimic or interfere with hormones. In a spray format, they can be respiratory irritants and can trigger headaches, dizziness, nausea, or worsen asthma and allergies. Sensitive, fragile skin (a common side effect of cancer treatment) is more reactive to irritants found in synthetic fragrances. 

Phthalates are chemicals used to help fragrances last longer on skin or in the air. Even low-dose exposure to hormone-disrupting or immune-challenging chemicals like phthalates and synthetic fragrances can aggravate side effects, disrupt healing and potentially interfere with hormone-sensitive cancer treatment.

What to Look for on Labels:

• Fragrance - Can represent a proprietary blend of undisclosed synthetic chemicals and may include phthalates.
• Parfum - Can represent a proprietary blend of undisclosed synthetic chemicals and may include phthalates.
• Aroma - Can represent a proprietary blend of undisclosed synthetic chemicals and may include phthalates.
• Phthalates - Are almost never listed outright; however, if a product contains fragrance/parfum and doesn't say “phthalate-free,” it likely contains phthalates. If listed, here are a few to look out for: Dibutyl Phthalate (DBP), Diethyl Phthalate (DEP), Dimethyl Phthalate (DMP), Di(2-ethylhexyl) Phthalate (DEHP).

Commonly Found In:

• Perfume, parfum, cologne, eau de toilette, aftershave etc.
• Lotions, creams, moisturizers, serums
• Face cleansers, body wash, shower gel, liquid soap
• Shampoo, conditioner, hair treatments
• Laundry detergents and fabric softeners
• Deodorants and antiperspirants
• Air fresheners and cleaning products
  

Our Preferred Alternative: To purchase products from reputable brands that state that they’re “phthalate-free” and/or use “no synthetic fragrance” and show their commitment to making high-quality products through their healthy formulations. We believe that opting for products made only with natural ingredients is even better. Not only will this lower your chemical burden, but it will also help minimise your exposure to harmful chemicals.

We design all our products to be gentle and suitable for people with sensitive skin, but we also know that many people enjoy having a fragrance in their skincare products. To achieve a subtle but delicious scent without compromising the gentleness and non-irritating nature of our formulas, we use a special hypoallergenic fragrant oil, a proprietary blend whereby each component in it is less than the EU allergy threshold, and of course, free from phthalates.

Sometimes, essential oils are used to give a product a scent. Although natural, it’s important to be aware that even some natural ingredients can be quite strong and sensitizing during treatment. It depends on the essential oil and the amount used. For example, our Fresh Cream Deodorant Lemon Myrtle is slightly fragranced with Lemon Myrtle Leaf Oil to give a fresh scent. Even still, we recommend this for use by patients going through chemotherapy and radiation treatment, as we have found this ingredient in the amount we use to be very gentle and non-irritating. 

8. Petroleum-Based Oils

Why to Avoid It: Petroleum-based oils are derived from refining crude oil and are found in many personal care products, particularly creams, lotions and moisturizers. They glide on the skin well and make it feel smooth, but they don’t provide much real benefit.  These ingredients are heavy occlusives that sit on top of the skin. While they can temporarily lock in moisture, they don’t allow it to breathe. For already compromised skin, this can prevent or slow healing, as well as trap bacteria, heat or sweat, leading to infections or discomfort.

What to Look for on Labels:

• Mineral Oil (Paraffinum Liquidum) - A clear, odourless oil/emollient to soften skin and reduce moisture loss.
• Petrolatum (Petroleum Jelly) - A semi-solid mixture that creates a protective barrier to lock in moisture.
• Paraffin Wax / Paraffin Oil - A white or colorless wax used to thicken products and provide a smooth texture.

Commonly Found In:

• Ointments and healing salves
• Baby oils and scar treatment oils
• Drugstore lip salves and balms
• Some “intensive repair” lotions and creams
• Cheap moisturizers like Sorbolene
  

Our Preferred Alternative: Fast Hydrating Lotion — A quick-absorbing, easy-to-apply, soothing, lightweight moisturizer to replenish dry, thin, fragile and compromised skin. Made with natural, high-quality oils for hydration and healing.

9. Aluminum

Why to Avoid It: Aluminum-based compounds are used in antiperspirants to block sweat glands and reduce perspiration. However, during radiation, especially in areas like the underarms, blocking sweat may cause irritation or inflammation. Some cancer patients also choose to avoid aluminum due to ongoing concerns about potential links to hormone disruption, though current research is inconclusive.

What to Look for on Labels:

• Aluminum Chlorohydrate
• Aluminum Zirconium Tetrachlorohydrex
• Aluminum Zirconium Trichlorohydrex
• Aluminum Sesquichlorohydrate
• Aluminum Chloride
  

Commonly Found In:

• Most commercial antiperspirants
• “Clinical strength” deodorants
• Spray or roll-on antiperspirants
  

Our Preferred Alternative: Fresh Cream Deodorant Sensitive – A natural, non-irritating, aluminum-free deodorant made with milk of magnesia. Gentle enough for sensitive skin during cancer treatment. 100% aerosol-free and fragrance-free

10. Final Thoughts

When your skin is compromised by chemotherapy or radiation, choosing gentle, nourishing care and avoiding harsh or potentially irritating ingredients can make a significant difference in your comfort and healing. While all our products are suitable for use during and after treatment, we created our Oncology Care collection to provide our recommendations for safe and helpful skincare options formulated for compromised skin, to aid you during this difficult time.

Your skin is your body's natural barrier, and during chemotherapy or radiation, it needs extra TLC and protection. By avoiding these 9 common irritants and switching to gentle, oncology-safe alternatives like ours, you can reduce the risk of discomfort and support your skin’s healing process. When trying any new product, always patch test first, and check with your oncology team or dermatologist to make sure it’s safe for your unique treatment plan.